A Glowing Complexion Under the Surface

Dermaplaning exfoliates to a new level

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The deep exfoliation of dermaplaning is suitable for all ages.

The benefits of skin exfoliation have been touted for years, but now dermaplaning takes it to a whole new level—literally. 

“Dermaplaning is the physical exfoliation treatment that removes dead skin cells on the epidermis by scraping the skin with a surgical blade,” says Jessica Dunn-Schubert, medical assistant and esthetician at Illume Aesthetics in Ashland. “It exfoliates the first layer of skin and takes off the vellus hair, also known as peach fuzz. This paves the way for better product retention and makeup application.”

Heather Wolf, esthetician at King Aesthetics in Medford, says that dermaplaning should only be done by a licensed esthetician who is trained to use a scalpel. “Holding the skin tight and scraping off the top layer of dead skin reveals brighter looking skin, reduces minor scarring and creates a new smooth, soft surface.”

Wolf says the entire procedure is painless and usually takes between 30-45 minutes depending on your age and skin elasticity. 

“We scrape the face and go down the neck for a smooth transition,” she says. “This is a lunchtime procedure. The skin may be slightly pink, but there is no downtime. You will be instructed in at-home skin care and should wear sunscreen SPF 30 after the procedure, but you should be using that everyday anyway.”

Dermaplaning preps the skin to receive other treatments that will now absorb better, says Dunn-Schubert. “It creates an opportunity to further feed the skin with hydrating products, anti-aging products, pore cleansing and other skin services. Makeup will now go on the skin and is not sticking to hair. It’s so beautiful! I love to do this for brides, anniversary celebrations, any event that will be caught on camera. You look fabulous with healthy glowing skin.”

Wolf agrees, commenting that removing that dull, top layer of skin is very satisfying. “People say they had no idea it was there,” she says.

However, Wolf cautions against home jobs. “Some people think they can do this at home by simply shaving their face,” she says. “A razor is not as sharp as a scalpel. The scalpel removes more dead skin and hair than a razor. This is not a DIY treatment. Always leave it to a professional.”

Dunn-Schubert agrees, emphasizing that customers should research and ask questions before committing to treatment. “Be sure you are working with a safe, trained professional,” she says. “I can’t stress enough that you should be in the right facility.”

Also, not everyone is a candidate for receiving dermaplaning, Dunn-Schubert notes. “Start with a consultation,” she says. “This is not for dark or thick, whisker-like hair; only for the softies, the peach fuzzies.”

Those with broken skin, pimples, acne or other inflammatory skin conditions, such as eczema or psoriasis, should avoid dermaplaning.

Wolf says the No. 1 question she hears is asking if the removed hair will come back darker and thicker. “That is the major concern, and the answer is no,” she says. “It will come back the same as before.”

To maintain the glow after the initial treatment, plan on follow up service about once a month. For those with sensitive skin, once a season may be enough.

“Appropriate skin care is a must,” says Dunn-Schubert. “Always use sunscreen and hydrating lotion. With proper care and dermaplaning, you will have a beautiful outcome.”

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What to know before you go

Questions to ask when choosing an esthetician:

  • Is this a licensed, regulated facility?
  • How long has the esthetician been doing dermaplaning? (Only advanced estheticians are allowed to do dermaplaning.)
  • Are you a candidate? Make sure the facility offers a consultation to determine if this is right for your skin type. There are alternative treatments if you are not a candidate. 

Pros and cons of dermaplaning

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According to AmericanSpa.com, dermaplaning can improve facial appearance in several ways, though it may not be the best option for everyone.

Pros

  • Dermaplaning can reduce the appearance of fine lines, even skin tone and assist with the reduction of milia, blackheads, whiteheads and congestion associated with breakouts
  • It stimulates cellular turnover with little to no downtime.
  • It can significantly help lighten post inflammatory scars from past acne.
  • It allows for better product penetration and makeup application. 

Cons:

  • Dermaplaning may be more expensive than some other hair removal treatments.
  • The results may not be as long-lasting as other hair removal methods, such as waxing because the hair is not removed at the root.
  • Results will differ depending on a person’s individual hair-growth cycle.

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